AGCX 10050 was involved in a derailment on CN at St. Tite, Quebec back in November 2009, after a broken rail caused several cars - including this one - to fall off a bridge at 38 mph. Given the age and potential cost of repairs, the car was decided to be beyond repair after evaluation at home shop. The car is seen here at London, ON on 10/16/2010, heading for Zubick's scrap yard. See the TSB report HERE. |
I've been meaning to write this blog entry for a while, but it always
seemed that one thing or another seems to get in the way. Anyway, I finally
managed to put pen to paper (or whatever the digital equivalent is), so here we
go…
What happens after a train derailment? From the car owner’s
perspective, much as with the railroad, a lot of paperwork. Assuming that all
the fires have been put out the main line is back in service, the exciting part
is over, as far as the news media is concerned. But the process is really just
beginning; one of my main tasks while working at a railcar lessor was that of
handling the paperwork associated with cars that were involved in derailments
or accidents (accountants love paperwork!). It turns out that the process is
usually quite drawn out, usually lasting several months or years even.
When a derailment occurs, the railroad will notify the equipment car
owners using an electronic communication system known as the Damage and
Defective Car Tracking System (DDCTS; I like acronyms…), which is operated by
Railinc, the digital information subsidiary of the AAR. This system is also
used to coordinate shoppings for cars that are defective (bad ordered) but
which the handling road cannot repair on a conventional RIP track (truck
hunting is a common defect reported in DDCTS). When a new derailment event is
created, it gives the handling line access to basic information about a car,
including owner, owner contact information, and depreciated value (DV) – what the
car is worth at the time of the accident. An email is sent to the car owner to
describe the damages, as well as facilitate further handling of the wreck. The
handling line has three basic choices – a) repair the car and return to service
(at handling line’s expense), b) send car to home shop (one designated or owned
by car owner), or c) consider the car destroyed in the wreck and settle with
the car owner for DV. The DV route isn’t favourable, but there are many cases
where a car is too badly damaged to make economic sense to repair.
If pursuing the first option, the car will usually be routed to the
railroad’s nearest RIP track, usually at the nearest large yard. There, minor
repairs such as bent hand grabs or damaged wheelsets can be replaced. The car
owner will get a repair bill showing the repairs made, and that they were the
handling line’s responsibility ($0 bill).
The option to send a car to home shop means that repairs are beyond the
skill of the handling line (for example, almost anything to do with tank cars
or specialty components on other cars such as pneumatic hopper car gates).
Sometimes the car is in sufficient mechanical condition to move on its’ own
wheels to shop (common if car was only sideswiped), but usually if one or both
trucks separated from the car in a wreck, this means a ride on a ‘hospital’ car
to shop (flatcar). These days many railroads consider it safer to load the damaged
car onto a flatcar (at not insignificant expense) than to attempt to repair the
brake gear or trucks if damaged. This usually extends the process considerably,
from sourcing a spare flatcar, arranging a crane for load-up, and checking
clearances along the route. Usually a mechanical carman will determine whether
a car is salvageable or whether it is too badly damaged to repair. If the car
is considered destroyed, the railroad can keep the salvage (scrap) value of the
car, whereas sending it to shop involves finding a flatcar, paying for a crane,
a crew to secure the car, freight to shop, and once actually there, the repairs
to the car. Thus, if a wrecked car tends to be old, or major items on the car
are damaged, the damaging line will often choose to write off the car instead
of attempting repairs. Relatively-new cars tend to be less expensive to repair
than to scrap, as they have higher DV’s. One measure of a car’s repairability
is the trucks – if the trucks were significantly damaged or lost, replacing or
repairing them might not make financial sense. Including new bolsters,
sideframes, wheelsets, springs, friction wedges, and miscellaneous components,
a new set of trucks for a car can easily run $18-$20,000+.
Other than providing shop disposition to the damaging line, the car owner
can’t do much until the car shows up at the repair shop. Once there, a repair
inspector will look over the car and make a detailed list of defective or
missing items, known as a joint inspection certificate (JIC); often writing the
JIC is harder when parts are missing from the car, since there isn’t a reminder
that a part should be on the car! Some items, like ladders or couplers are
pretty obvious when they’re missing though… The car owner will send the JIC to
the damaging road for endorsement; if/when endorsed (agreed upon by owner and
damaging line), that is authority for the car owner to bill the damaging line
for repairs made using the AAR Car Repair Billing Price Master, which contains
job codes and billing rates for most possible repairs to be made to the car.
The price master provides a fair method for car owners and railroads to bill
each other, and factors in material condition (new or reconditioned),
inspection, material, and labour costs associated with the repair. Items not
specified in the price master, such as tank car valves or pneumatic hopper car
gates, are billed at cost plus the labour to repair the components.
The unit in the above photo I bought at a local train show, knowing it
was already damaged. I think I paid $40 for it (it has sound, and runs decent),
and on inspection found a number of repairable defects including bent/broken
handrails, broken snowplow, missing cab sunshade and couplers, broken horn and
bad weathering. I don’t know what caused the engine to be in this condition,
but to me it looks like it could have been in a minor HO wreck; given the low
purchase price, availability and cost of replacement parts, I think this engine
can be repaired fairly easily, and will make a nice addition to the run-through
power roster. I have a spare plow in stock, possibly the handrails as well (or
can be ordered from Atlas), along with horn, sun shades, and couplers, and
hopefully the weathering won’t be too difficult to remove – I think that may be
the most difficult part of the project, removing the weathering material
without damaging the underlying paint. Stay tuned for a future blog article
showing progress that the repair crew has made on the unit…
Hope you found this interesting,
Til Next Time,
Cheers,
Peter.
I found this *very* interesting! I had no idea how complex the paperwork behind car repairs is.
ReplyDeleteLove the Wrecked Tank Car
ReplyDelete